According to Jay Rayner, we may well be sick of hearing about ‘dirty fast food’ in 2012; sick even, of hearing people say they are sick of it. Bacon is different. Unlike sausages, hot dogs and burgers (whose recent ‘inclusive’ animal policy would make even Noah proud), bacon not only looks like meat but is impervious to the oscillations and whims of food twitter twattle. The only difference is that we are eating more of it and in different ways: bacon brownies, bacon jam and even, as created by food blogger Niamh Shields, brown sugar candied bacon honeycomb butter (the very name induces heart palpitations). continue reading
Breakfast foods have experienced more fame in the press of late than a Kate Middleton hemline: who’d have thought that breaking your fast could provoke such a media frenzy? What with Farmhouse Breakfast Week at the end of January, doomsayers prophesying the demise of marmalade, porridge sales rocketing and Trewithen Dairy’s GreenBottle launching in supermarkets across Cornwall, I almost pity the flaccid croissant- guzzlers that are our continental counterparts. continue reading
In honour of last week’s Farmhouse Breakfast Week, a wee fry-up was in order. I say ‘wee’ meaning small, but heck, it wasn’t small, this was a carnivorous tableau, a paean to mornings, an offering to the breakfast gods. And all in the face of those contintental types: “ooo, must dash, just got time to grab a coffee.” A coffee? Where are the carbs in that? They’re not hiding behind the caffeine and yes I love a croissant every now and then but please, it’s a snack.
Then there are those who can’t ‘stomach’ breakfast because it’s too early in the morning. Too early? I’ve spent all night without eating and now I need to … break my fast. I can’t think of a better time to fill my gut.
So, on to the important stuff, the ingredients. Wonderful eggs with sunshine yolks and back bacon sourced locally from Little Halgavor Farm, Bodmin. No white watery oozings here, just caramelly-crispy rind and real fat. Hogs pudding from Alistair at Liddicoats in Lostwithiel, their own recipe, made on the premises (mamma mia it was good) and black pudding sourced from aforesaid butcher but made in the Outer Hebrides.
The result? Have a look for yourself. Pretty healthy when you consider that it was all cooked in the oven bar the poached eggs and beans. Who needs an espresso in a ceramic thimble and some flakey pastry arc de beurre for brekkie when you can have this. We win.